These are timeless standards that will not change as suit trends progress, so memorize them. As much as possible, do whatever it takes to avoid wearing an ill-fitting suit again. Below are some indicators that the suit you are wearing is out of style:
10. Shoulder sag/bite on jacket
The shoulder should be the first thing you look at while trying on a suit jacket or blazer.
Shoulder sag and shoulder bite are two big indicators that the suit you're wearing isn't the appropriate fit. Both are harmful, but sag is the worse of the two. When the shoulder breadth of the jacket does not match the wearer's shoulders, several faults arise.
Bite is a depression on the arm towards the back of the sleeve head that occurs when the shoulders/armholes of a suit or sport jacket are overly tight.
Shoulder sag occurs when the shoulders are overly wide.
When trying on a jacket, if you detect shoulder sag or bite, it's advisable to try a different size or go with custom. A tailor can help to some extent, but it'll be difficult to alter and likely expensive.
9. The front button stance on the jacket is too high and pops.
The attitude of buttons has long been a point of contention in the menswear world. Many modern ready-to-wear jackets, particularly from contemporary Italian apparel makers, have a mid-to-high button posture.
When worn appropriately, a higher button posture can seem fairly casual and trendy, but when worn excessively tight, the outcome is dreadful - especially if the wearer has a bit of a belly.
When the jacket is fully buttoned, the higher the button posture, the shorter your torso will appear. This is excellent if you are short and want to make your legs appear longer, but it can make you appear unbalanced otherwise.
The top button on a two-button suit should be 1-3 fingers above the belly button and pull slightly (depending on the look the wearer is going for). It will "pop" or pull too strongly if it is excessively high and tight.
The best way to remedy it is to size up or down, or to choose a different style or brand. If nothing else works, try something unique.
8. The jacket's chest gapes or breaks.
A suit's or sport jacket's chest should always match the contour of the wearer's chest.
A gaping coat chest, like a chest break, is not a nice look. A chest break occurs when the jacket is too tiny, while a chest gape occurs when the jacket is too large. It creates a gap between the chest and the jacket in either case. It could also be related to the position of the shoulder in general.
How to repair it: If you notice one of these problems when trying on ready-to-wear clothing, move up or down a size first. If this does not resolve the issue, you might investigate bespoke options rather than attempting to have it adapted.
7. The suit jacket is either too short or too long.
Shorter coats are fashionable, but don't go overboard. You must also rectify the problem if you are still wearing jackets down to your fingertips.
Around 80% of your butt and crotch should be covered by your suit jacket.
The bottom border of a jacket should usually terminate between your thumb's two knuckles. When wearing a casual sport coat, this rule can be pushed a little because they tend to be a little shorter.
It's usually not possible to have a jacket reduced or lengthened by a tailor. First, try sizing up or down, and then talk to your sales associate about whether tailoring or bespoke (ready-made) is a better option for you.
6. The seat of the pant is too tight or too saggy.
Depending on how active you are or the shape of your lower half, it's fairly uncommon for the seat to be too tight or too saggy. The seat should be comfortable. It's time to size up if they feel like they're about to split when you sit.
How to remedy it: A droopy seat is easily fixed by tailors. Get your pants taken in if they're too big in the back. If it's too small, you should go up a size. A tailor can normally only take one inch out of a pair of dress pants.
5. Elephant ears protrude from the pant pockets.
This is a difficult one to answer because it isn't something that can be solved with a fast trip to the tailor. A man's trouser pockets should be flat and tidy against the side of his hip. If they pop, your pants aren't fitting properly.
When the seat is too snug or the stride isn't long enough, the pockets pop open. The larger the pop, the tighter the fit. This is a critical subject to keep an eye on.
How to fix it: Start by scaling up. If you're having trouble locating trousers that don't have pocket pop, you could consider having them made to order.
4. The collar of the jacket is rolled up behind the neck.
A collar roll is the worst. However, this is something that a skilled tailor can fix.
Collar roll occurs on a suit for two reasons: the wearer's posture does not match the jacket's slope, or the individual has high shoulders. It's more frequent than you might imagine, but it's also something that a lot of people aren't aware of.
How to repair it: Customize it. Collar roll is a common problem that can be solved by simply altering the shoulder's slope.
3. The pants looking as though it's from the 1990s.
The man in the photo below looks hilarious. His costume appeared to be from the early 1990s, with an extremely long jacket and trousers.
How to fix it: If they're excessively big all over, size down, or have a tailor hem and/or take them in. Most dress pants come unhemmed, so you'll have to hem them when you get them. Make sure your tailor understands that you only want one break. Re-hemming them if they aren't just right is a simple remedy.
2. Your knuckles are covered by the jacket sleeves.
Your suit jacket sleeve should fall just above the hinge where your hand joins your wrist. If all of your jackets are tailored to this level and your shirts are properly fitted, you'll always have the right amount of shirt cuff, which should be between 1/4" and 1/2".
How to fix it: Adjusting the sleeve length is another simple option. Get the sleeves tailored if the jacket fits elsewhere but the sleeves. A tailor can normally cut or lengthen a sleeve up to an inch in either direction. If you require more, a made-to-measure solution is the best alternative.
1. The all-too-familiar collar gap!
This is the number one cardinal offense when it comes to fitted apparel. The collar gap is a telling sign that you're wearing the wrong jacket, and most people aren't aware of it. This is the area between your jacket's and shirt's collars where there is a gap.
The back of your neck should always be clean and tight against the collar of your garment. It's sometimes a balance issue, and sometimes it's a sizing issue. Whatever the scenario may be, make sure it does not occur to you.
How to remedy it: If the gap is small, a tailor may be able to close it, however this can be a costly adjustment. Instead, we recommend trying a different brand or sizing up or down. Custom suits are definitely your best bet if this is a common problem for you.
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